After an indescribable vacation, I've decided not to describe so much as simply show you my experience. And after this, I want to hear no more complaints that I don't post enough pictures.

To fulfill Steve's final wish before leaving South America, we decided to trek to Machu Picchu, "The Lost City of the Incas." But rather than use the well-trodden Inca Trail, a tip from a fellow volunteer put us on the three-day trek through the Lares Valley. Whereas 500 tourists use the Inca Trail every day, our companions were Peruvian children to whom we gave bread and school supplies as they followed us down the path.

Please take note of the wide open spaces and lack of 499 gringos walking up the trail ahead of me. At the top of the waterfalls is our campsite for the first night.

We camped among sheep, llamas, and horses. Over that ridge, masked by the fog, is a beautiful lagoon. And to further to the right...
Our bathroom! Thanks to Susan for the demonstration.

Here's a view of the lagoon from the other side. Our campsite was just over the ridge above the reflection of the mountain peak.

In case you were wondering how we did all this strenuous hiking with camping gear and food and backpacks, here it is. Although we take the road less traveled, like true gringos we still hire people to carry our crap.

The temperature? Cold. Actually we hiked through a very wide range of climates, but the first two nights were FREEZING. Look how much joy Steve is getting from this warm bottle of water in the morning.

A lot of what made this trip so special for me was spending one last week with Steve (of the Steve-Winston-Sarah recycling trio). This picture is of a little hike we took together after lunch on the second day and the amazing snowy mountain view shared only by us. That made me happy.

You know what else makes me happy? Llamas on the trail!

And good food. Our cooks were amazing and prepared for us some of the best food I have eaten in the last two years. They even made us personalized pancakes on the last morning!

Finally, after a very comfortable night in a hotel, we reached Machu Picchu as the sun rose over the mountains and gradually illuminated the impressive ruins. Built in the 1400s at an altitude of 8000 feet, its exact function is unknown, though some think it may have served as a royal estate and religious retreat. Most of the structures are built of granite blocks fitted together perfectly without mortar. Special care was given to ensure this exact fit, although none of the blocks are the same size and some have as many as 30 corners. In the religious sectors especially, the joints are so tight that even the thinnest of knife blades cannot be forced between the stones. Another unique thing about Machu Picchu is the integration of the architecture into the landscape. Existing stone formations were used in the construction of buildings, sculptures are carved into the rock, water flows through cisterns and stone channels, and temples hang on steep precipices.

Forgotten and deserted for unknown reasons, Machu Picchu was rediscovered in 1911 by Yale professor Hiram Bingham. After clearing off the jungly overgrowth, little else was done to restore the constructions to their splendor. All stones are original, and only the grass roofs have been added.

After our tour of the ruins, we climbed the tall peak, Waynu Picchu, in the background of the first ruins picture and got a glorious aerial view of the ruins and surrounding mountains.

Then, tired of being tourists, Steve, Susan and I did some exploring of our own. It soon started to rain, scaring the other gringos away and leaving us in relative solitude and with free reign of the truly magestic setting. Not only were we able to soak in the awe and wonder at our own pace, but we also had the chance to spot some wildlife inhabiting the ancient rooms.

Okay, so it's not too hard to spot a llama, but this little bugger, the viscacha, is a little bit stealthier. He thinks we think he's a rock. This little marsupial is quick and evasive and inhabited many of the regions on our trek, though I think I saw one of them on the trail.

Anyway, if you're going to visit Machu Picchu, I highly recommend ditching your tour guide when you've gotten as much out of him or her as you can. The ruins are worth some personal exploration and meditation, if you're into that.

As for me, I continue to meditate on my mouse-removal strategy. Speaking of stealthy rodent-like critters, I returned home to Valle to find that The Mouse had completely ignored my ingenious trap. Back to the drawing board...